Q. My girlfriend and I have a partially finished basement. She wants me to divide part of the basement off for an office. What is the best wall/divider/partition I can use so she will have privacy from the rest of the basement? Is Drywall the only answer? What can I use for a nice ceiling as well with lighting? Thanks for your help, it really means a lot to us.

A. There are many ideas for dividing rooms. A wall is the best, but if you do not want that, you can use purchased office dividers (can be expensive), or bookshelves, or changing screen, or even a ceiling to floor curtain on a cable system. I like drywalled ceilings, but you can use a drop ceiling, or tiles. As for lighting..most basements have little natural light, so great lighting is necessary. Recessed lighting, track lighting both work well. If you do not like these then traditional lighting is suffice when portable lighting is added...table lamps, floor lights..even rope lighting in niches or shelving all add to the ambiance if that is the look you are going for. Brighter lighting is a must in the office section.

Q. I'm considering remodeling my basement and I have a few questions.I want to put in a movietheatre and just a general family area with maybe a bar and a couple of games. Any idea how much this would put me down for?(New Jersey) Everything....building materials electonics the whole deal

A. I would make sure your basement will not get water before refinishing it. If you already have a sump pump or drain tiles, great, but if not, I would seriously consider adding one or both. Otherwise you could ruin carpeting, drywall, etc. with the first minor seepage. I've seem basements done for $15,000 to $25,000, but it really depends on the extent. I would ask a few contractors for ideas so you get a general ballpark of how much of it you want to remodel and what you'll put in there. Try to draw it on paper, too. Will you leave some as storage? Will you have to move pipes to make headroom, etc.? Here are a few links that can help: http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/14277.shtml http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/268.shtml

Q. Does anyone know of any good home contractor in MD? How much would it cost to renovate basement of 500 square feet. I would like to renovate existing bath by replacing upright shower, install new sink, replace toilet and put dry wall and door to separate from the laundry room and also carpet the floors. Is $5000 or under reasonable?

A. If they are in your area, I used to work for a company in Parkville, MD, called Post and Beam Construction. They are a top quality, customer oriented company, that will work within your budget. Check out their web site. The owners names are Scott and Bill, and their phone is 410-515-6464. Good Luck

Q. I am in the planning phase of finishing our basement, and wondered where the best place was to buy materials and supplies. I'm asking more about drywall, lumber, screws, etc. since this will be the most expensive part of the first phase. Are the Big Box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) the most cost effective choice, or is there a more cost effective alternative? The first poster brought up an interesting point. I'm located in the Kansas City area, so local options would be the best solution.

A. If your material costs are over $1,500 go to Home Depot contractor desk. Tell them you would like pricing form "the bid room". When you give them a material list, they run their regular pricings and then cut At least 8% off, and more if the order is substantial. Take a material list to multiple stores and get quotes. They are free. Then compare pricings line by line, and you can save some money by getting material from multiple sources. Hope this helps

Q. Owens Corning is just to expensive are there and good competitors for the wall paneling system?

A. As an x employee I can tell you the Owens Corning system is intentionally over priced so the independent sales people can make money. You can get the system for 38% off list if you hold out until they recontact you after showing the sales person the door. However if you don't have any water issues which cause mold and mildew there are alternatives available.

Q. The house was built in 1920; the walls are very damp and I'm sure there's mildew. I would really like to create a living space downstairs, and I was wondering how much it would cost to waterproof/refinish? Any ideas? Tips?

A. My tip/idea: You know, the easiest thing you can do is to call home remodelers in your area--or instead of calling, use the link below--and get Free estimates from them as to the cost involved in refinishing the basement. (Home remodelers usually do all trades in general related to your basement, etc.) This is the only true way of assessing the cost involved, as the cost of material and labor greatly varies by location; so what one person says on here does not get you any closer to understanding what costs are involved in this project without the use of local contractor estimates. Here is a handyman site I use often, which has a section devoted to home improvement articles, where you'll also find towards the far left bottom of the following home improvement page a bright, kind-of-orange home-guru Bob Villa-endorsed ad that offers up to four (4) Free estimates that can be given to you very fast from local remodeling contractors in your area (again, this free-estimate offer is towards the very left-bottom of the following linked page): http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Home_Improvement_Zone.htm Like I said, get a hold of some local remodelers. In exchange for giving them work, you also might be able to get a good deal on the material from the remodeling contractor, since, usually, they have access to wholesale pricing on building material given the great amount of installations they do. That's the way to go. Good luck with your project!

Q. I am remodeling my basement. The current exterior walls are 2x2 nailed to block and covered with sheetrock. I plan to add a 2x4 'bumpout' against the old 2x2 along the entire exterior walls that will be 36" high. The problem is if I do this the electrical wires in the the old boxes will not meet regulation of <=6" and <= 3" extending beyond the box. Can I abandon the old 15a electrical circuit (disconnect) and run a new circuit though the bumpout and new boxes I will install or can I not run electrical circuits through a partial wall?

A. As long as you plan to abandon the old, go ahead and wire up the new. Its fine.

Q. I used 3 1/2" fiberglass paper backed insulation. Would water proof drywall be better? The basement walls have no leaks appears dry.

A. You've done everything right so far. Go ahead and hang green board while you are at this stage. It doesn't cost that much more and might save you down the road. Here are some links t5hat might help you...